Road Trip 2009: North to the Black Hills

Today is a day of superlatives. We went to bed with 94 degrees and wind and woke to 54 degrees and overcast.

Overcast was great for crossing Nebraska where we went from farmland to ranchland and back. The towns spread out and most didn’t even have reduced speed limits. We often went for 10 or 15 minutes without seeing another car. The hills rose gently and our elevation climbed steadily. It was beautiful, relaxing and we saw some wildlife and lots of cattle.

Turning north toward the small town of Chadron we came to the Museum of the Fur Trade. I definitely wanted to stop; Mountain men and the western expansion was one of my favorite subjects and I used to read every book I could find on the subject. The museum was far more than expected. Their extensive collection on the fur trade history of the world, textile collection, firearms collection and location at one of the original trading posts made it a great stop. It is one of the most exceptional small museums I’ve visited.

The young docent at the museum recommended a restaurant in town for lunch. We took the suggestion and went to the Heritage Grill which turned out to have exceptional food and good company. We met a couple; he is a corporate dropout now ranching in her home town. They live 127 miles from their county seat and were in town for groceries for the crew coming in for the calf branding coming up. Chadron is their closest town with a good grocery store.

From Chadron we drove north into the Black Hills and continued to climb. I’ve been to the Black Hills several times but never entering from the south. We avoided “some” of the obnoxious billboards that welcome visitors from the east. Custer State Park and its wildlife loop hasn’t changed since I toured there with my family 40 plus years ago. We saw what we were looking for; lots of buffalo, antelope, deer, wild turkey, prairie dogs and very few tourists! This is a great time of year to visit.

Heading to Hill City we took the “Needles Highway”. I don’t believe I have ever taken this amazing scenic byway before. It climbs and twists with switchbacks and rather small tunnels through the rocks to some spectacular views of absolutely amazing rock formations. Tall spires with boulders balanced at their tips, needles, cathedral looking formations. Another superlative for the day. Arriving in Hill City we found a cute little log duplex cabin just a couple blocks from the suggested restaurant; Desperados, a cowboy restaurant. Turns out the owner of the restaurant is another of those dropouts who also went to Indiana University, had a traditional career and then decided that this is where he wants to be. He and Jim had a great conversation and Jim transferred his IU decal from the car window to the restaurant window. This is a restaurant that you know will succeed. The owner pays personal attention to each customer and makes a connection with them. The menu is amble but not too long and the food is good and generous. Located in an historic building on the main street this is my recommendation if you go through Hill City.

Have you ever planned a trip that includes return visits to places you went as a child? I know this doesn’t always work and doesn’t always impress the second time around but today has been totally the opposite. I have seen areas of the Black Hills that I saw years ago and they still enchant me. The new areas we visited were stunning and surprised me. This is a beautiful, magical area. If you go to the Black Hills try and ignore the billboards as you approach. The area would be so much better off without them but once you enter the hills and the parks the billboards go away and the magic captures your attention.

We are mostly touring for the scenery, geology and history but this place has got so much to do; from horseback riding, shopping, theme parks, water parks, shopping, museums, a gold mine, history, nature, shopping, camping and more. And Roger there is a Harley shop here so we’ll get your t-shirt if they open in time. Size?